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Lathe Talk #41: High-Tech Hearing Protection and Wet Sanding with Abralon Abrasives.
October 03, 2010

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Inside Issue #41

  • Website Update
  • Blog Reminder
  • Website Special
  • Safety Tip of the Month
  • Special Guest Author Feature
  • Subscription Information

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Welcome to all of our new U.S. and International subscribers and thank you for joining us! This is the Forty-first edition of Lathe Talk, a free newsletter (e-zine) for subscribers of Steve Russell’s "Woodturning Videos Plus" woodturning website. This newsletter will be delivered approximately once every four to six weeks to the email address you indicated on your sign-up form. All back issues of this newsletter are available to subscribers here.

Lathe Talk will offer tips and tricks to make your woodturning easier and more productive. I’ll also show you ways to save money in your studio, so you can stretch your hard earned money. In addition, we will periodically offer subscribers only specials on our videos and e-books. If you like this e-zine, please do a friend and me a favor by forwarding it to them. If a friend DID forward this to you and you like what you read, please subscribe by visiting our subscription page.


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Issue #41 Special – For Lathe Talk Subscribers Only

$5.00 additional discount on my Volume #3 Bowl Turning: Step by Step Double DVD Video set.

You can preview the bowl turning video on our Video Preview page. To access this special offer, enter the coupon code 6678 on the shopping cart page in the coupon box area. Click the "recalculate" button and your discount will show on the screen. Offer ends October 31st, 2010 at 12:01 midnight, CST. Additional subscriber only discounts and specials will be offered in future editions of Lathe Talk.


Safety Tip of the Month:
High-Tech Hearing Protection

Learn about various products you can use for hearing protection in a woodturner's studio, including passive and active noise protection devices. To view the full article, click the link below.

High-Tech Hearing Protection


Special Guest Author Feature:
Wet Sanding with Abralon Abrasives

Note: This is the first in a series of articles written by Lathe Talk subscribers. If you have a technique, story, or protocol you would like to share with the more than 10,000 readers of Lathe Talk, email Steve Russell.

By: R.O. (Dick) Sanford

Dick Sanford
Guest Author, Dick Sanford, turns on the big island of Hawaii.

Overview

MIRKA Abralon pads can be a wonderful addition to your sanding tool arsenal. I prefer a 6” disc with a fabric face and foam backing. The abrasive particles are silicon carbide and appear to be very uniform in size. The fabric backing allows the pads to be used for either wet or dry sanding and the pads are easily rejuvenated by washing them in soapy water, rinsing clean and then blowing out any residual debris. They have a sanding life many times that of traditional sheet abrasive papers.


Dick Sanford’s Abralon Sanding Protocol

Although they can be used dry, I have developed a protocol to quickly wet-sand my smaller turnings that uses the 6" pads and results in a flawless finish. After dry sanding a piece through 400-grit, I place an 18" x 18" square or 6” x 18” rectangle of ½” plywood on top of my lathe’s ways, under my work piece. I prefer the larger square, but if my tailstock is being used the narrow strip will still protect my lathe from the overspray.

Abralon abrasives
Abralon's abrasives feature silicon carbide on a
fabric-backed foam core.

Using a clean set of pads, I work through my grits quickly and efficiently. Dipping a pad into the water, squeeze out any excess. This allows me to get just the right amount of water into the pad to cut the wood quickly, but not spraying everywhere. Although a 180-grit disc is available, my preference is to use 360, 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000-grit discs.

Abralon abrasives
Abralon abrasives in 360 through 4000 grit.

Depending on the wood, the work piece and the degree of care taken in the final cut; work is dry sanded to remove any torn grain or tool marks and achieve that perfect desired form. Generally, I do a close inspection of the work piece after dry sanding to 150-grit. Using an idea from Andi Wolfe, my sandpaper is stacked in an ascending pack of grits. The sandpaper is held in order in one hand, rotating through the grits quickly.

This is especially useful if you identify a problem area of your work piece that must be brought up to an acceptable level, and then blended into the surrounding areas. Using sequential grits, gradually enlarging your sanding area with finer grits will bring the work piece to a uniform smoothness. Using fresh quarter-sheet pieces of sandpaper, pre-folded into thirds, helps to make sanding a quick, organized step of woodturning.

After the piece is dry-sanded to 400-grit, a visual inspection is done to make sure no crisply cut details were removed. If sanding did obliterate these details, they can be re-cut with a honed tool, finely sharpened and polished. This will restore sharp edges and valleys with no need for sanding. Care must be taken in this cut so the wood is not burnished by riding the bevel too hard. If burnishing (a bruising of the wood cells from pressure applied by the trailing edge of the tool) does occur then a consistent, flowing cut will not look as good.

Abralon abrasives
The fabric backing on Abralon's abrasives can also
be used with hook and loop sanding pads.

Applying the sequential grits to the wood with damp Abralon pads at about 1500 rpm will remove previous sanding marks from coarser grits and also raise the grain, cutting it off, and create a fine slurry of wood particulates. The trick is to keep the pad moving, both on the wood and around the surface of the pad itself, to continually expose fresh abrasive. Wipe off excess water before moving to the next grit. After sanding through to 1000-grit, I will use the 2000 and 4000-grits just barely damp. This will remove excess water from the rougher grits and will allow the surface to dry more quickly.

Abralon abrasives
Abralon's abrasives feature silicon carbide abrasive grains and have
been very well received by woodturners for sanding their projects.

Too much water will both create a mess and soak deeper into the wood, particularly endgrain. If you are in a rush to finish a piece there are methods to accelerate the removal of excess water, i.e. leave the lathe turning, or applying a surfactant such as lacquer thinner, white gas (naphtha), acetone, or alcohol, which quickly evaporates with no or little residue; this will allow the removal of any slurry remnants, if desired.

The slurry will have the characteristic of filler, if a smooth glaze-like finish is desired. Removing the slurry will result in a less muddy finish, one that makes the grain pop out. Particularly if the wood has curl or other chatoyance, a clean finish is best. One that opens the wood cells, so the eye can see the beauty of the wood grain. If an oil finish is to be used, then that oil or a mineral oil can also be used to prep the wood; but I find that a solvent works better to remove these remnants.

Abralon abrasives
This side view shows the foam core in
the center of Abralon's abrasive pad.

The Abralon pads work well on contoured surfaces, molding to curves as you sand. The foam center of the Abralon pad helps to achieve an even pressure, eliminating uneven sanding patterns that can occur with sandpaper. If a wax finish is desired (I prefer Renaissance wax), then the sanding of a piece to 4000-grit and a tripoli buff (white diamond is used on light colored wood) will allow a beautiful sheen to be accomplished. I generally avoid a hard surface finish like lacquer. Although these pieces can have a high gloss and it can be accomplished in small shops with a rattle can, it also seems to me that these shiny wood turnings are smooth glossy pieces of wood-like plastic, rather than a finely finished piece of wood.

Note: MIRKA Abralon pads can be purchased on-line in a number of different packages. If you have any questions about Dick’s Abralon Finishing protocol, please email Steve Russell.

Dick Sanford's workshop
This photo shows one of the four workbenches that Dick is currently working on that will feature a masonite top with teak edging.

Article printed with permission from the author, Dick Sanford, Hula me La’au (Dances with Woods). Dick got started in woodworking early, at the age of 12, when his father sent him to a cupped 2x12x12 with a sharp jack plane and told him to smooth it. His father told him of a high school training project (circa 1931) where he had flattened cedar for a chest that his uncle ended up buying.


Closing Thoughts and Thanks

Our subscriber base has grown every single month! Thanks to all of our new and existing subscribers for our continued record setting subscription pace! Our subscriber base continues to see explosive growth every month.

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Help Us Spread The Word: Please let your woodturning friends know about my Lathe Talk newsletter and encourage them to subscribe. Working together, we can make Lathe Talk a valuable educational resource for woodturners around the world. Take care and let me know if I can help you with any of your woodturning questions, or challenges.

Steve

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